Archive for February, 2009

MAN Fall 2009.
February 27, 2009

Natural History Museum

I love a show like MAN Fall 2009, because I’m all for innovation and challenge in the menswear industry. A show like this although not very coherent is very much all about the clothes and the most suggestive show of all. From where stars arise I believe, therefore I’m always on the look out. In today’s world of fashion collaboration is synonymous with “limited edition”- mass produced designer clothing. Not to say there aren’t any great ones. What Topman is doing through a show like this is greater though. Offering these designers a platform where they can freely showcase their work as they would like. Embodying the true meaning of fashion and basing on creativity rather than commerce. Images Via

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum

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Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum

Welcome Gareth.
February 27, 2009

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Any day now we will be receiving the official announcement from LMVH as to Gareth Pugh’s new position at Dior Homme. And so the days of Kris Van Assche are soon coming to an end. There’s  definitely a lot of excitement for the arrival of Gareth Pugh to one of the worlds most endeared menswear labels. A lot of high expectations for Gareth who now  has the task of reviving the label to what it once was, modern, cool, young. Haute couture for men is what it was. But there is more than hope with Gareth who’s Fall 2009 Collection was one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week. Excitement and then fervent curiosity as to what will be Pugh’s vision for Dior Homme. [GRAZIA Reports]

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Van Assche’s Memorable Moments;



Spring 2008, Van Assche’s first collection for the label. It came as a shock to many who weren’t lets say prepared to see the label in such new vision. Considering that Van Assche was Slimane’s assistant we though he would have adopted or at least intended to adopt Slimane’s aesthetic. Instead, Van Assche stripped the label off its praised rock & roll and androgynous sensibility and introduced his version of the Dior Homme Man. According to Van Assche Slimane’s designs were all but elegant . This collection he said was about beauty and elegance.


Fall 2008, For his fall of 2008 collection Van Assche seemed to have continued with this idea of elegance and masculinity. Only this time he took the concept to a Gothic affair. Presenting  a very dark & somber collection, vampiresque even. And so the idea of this new Dior man was beginning to settle in our little minds. The idea of this new man who was elegant, mature, classic, and as Van Assche put it- not a “fashion kid”. This was the vision of Van Assche for Dior Homme, or so we thought.

Spring 2009, what I consider Van Assche’s mid-Dior crisis. The elegant man which we were getting to know, was gone. In his place came the old Dior Homme, the one Hedi himself had created. But this reincarnation of the Hedi’s Homme was off, there was something to him which felt alien & foreign. This was not Hedi’s Homme it was Van Assche’s poor attempt at bringing him back. Here we realized the reason for spring 2008, this was the disaster that would’ve happened then. The questions raised where whether Van Assche new the direction he was taking the label. Had he any clue. It was either Elegant Classicism or 80’s clubkid.

Fall 2009– 80’s club kid it was. Van Assche returned with the youthful approach. For what seemed to be a sportswear inspired collection themed angles. Some say this was Van Assche’s strongest collection yet, for it showcased his vision the most -telling from his work for his namesake label, than any of the collections past.

And so it has been a really…confusing, period.  I  liked the hightops though. What’s your favorite Van Assche moment?

 

The More Rad the Better.
February 25, 2009

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Rad Hourani : Nightime Person
By: COLLEEN NIKA for INTERVIEW MAGAZINE

The latest line the racks in his studio; I eye the midnight blue and onyx caged leather leggings, charcoal origami layered knits, and what appears to be a highly textured black cuirass, longingly. “These are definitely nighttime clothes,” I say.

Rad agrees: “I am a night person, so it comes naturally. I like blacks, dark blues, greys. I am a dark person-not a pessimistic person, though!” What other myths might we dispel?  For one, that Rad’s aesthetic is comparable to any of the following luminaries: Rick Owens (“I’m not Gothic! He rules that domain”); Margiela (“I am not a conceptual designer”), or Gareth Pugh (“I’m slick and modern, not sci-fi”). And while his clothing’s visual impact is stark and futuristic and his colors monochromatic, he doesn’t consider himself a minimalist. “What looks minimalist is actually very complex, very detailed. I take the idea of purity, but I love to embellish it. I liked to build refined layers and regard clothing like sculpture. What influences that? It’s usually architecture. It can be a line, a texture, a shape,” says Rad. 

“My clothing is asexual,” he says. “A man or a woman can wear these garments interchangeably. Gender is irrelevant.”

Hourani describes his customer as “Someone like you or me [LAUGHS]. Someone who similarly appreciates the geometry of clothing and who understands there’s a sensuality to the clothing itself without relying on the human form.”

It’s also for someone who “loathes trends,” which repel Hourani. The designer hopes that the recession will inaugurate a type universal catharsis for creative people. “It’s time to re-evaluate our priorities again. It’s time for making wise decisions-I really just want to see trends die.

Gucci Spring 2009.
February 24, 2009

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Calvin Klein Automne-Hiver 2009.
February 24, 2009