Archive for the ‘Runway Review AW 09’ Category

“Le Military Chic”.
March 18, 2009

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It all felt very chic and compelling, the collections of fall 2009 that is: an amalgamation between constrictive sensibilities and a soft approach. Best characterized by the military references present in many of the Paris collections, except stripped of their austerity. it was a new fashion forward approach on Cold War bureaucracy(Dries Van Noten, is that you?).

This season belted trenches, epaulets, trousers tucked into high lace up boots, strong shoulders and drastic proportions graced the runway. An austere approach cum soft tailoring, volume, and form fitting silhouettes, resulting in ; “le military chic”.

Dries Van Noten showcased his fall of 2009 collection at the French Communist Headquarters in Paris. This particular location, a sort of metaphor for the designer’s latest. A collection reminiscent of The Cold War with it’s masculine and vigorous appeal. The military inspired collection featured an array of belted trenches and double breasted jackets paired with pleated trousers all set to somber shades of blues, grays, and even red. Van Noten ran the risk of creating looks that would come off as too strong as if menswear wasn’t already constricting enough. But Dries knew where he was going with this one, bringing in the chic with oversized bags, modern fabrics and subtle touches like the contrasting white cover on some of the collars.

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Antonio Marra’s debut at Kenzo came with military inspired coats and suits. The long-johns, belted trenches and oversized knits which composed the collection conveyed a youthful and even hip feel. This represented another collection in which masculinity was intertwined with opposing elements. Trousers were tucked into boots and bags were used to accentuate . Full throttle chic!

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At Moschino, trousers tucked into boots seemed to balance the dandy looks up top. Moschino offered an ode to old English dressing inspired by surrealist artist Renee Magritte, a nod to traditional menswear. The English gents walking the runway donned military jackets, ponchos and zippered combat boots.

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And no review of Paris coulg go without the mentioning of Lanvin’s collection for fall 2009, a collection with undeniably set the tone for the entire season. The military-school boy looks of Lucas Ossendrijyer made up one of the best collections of the runway season. Here, there were pants tucked into boots paired with feminine touches like a silk neck scarf. Again austere looks less the vigorous result. Ossendrijver even created a new silhouette different from that of last season with belted coats and defined waists. Suddenly the Lanvin man has become the exact opposite of the Lanvin girl, this after Ossendrijver adopted the signature panache of Elbaz. Military chic wasn’t the only way in which this collection struck gold. Ossendrijver and Elbaz were able to capture the exact sense of optimism that has taken the industry, better said; the rest of the world. So much that they sent an Obama look-a-like waving down the runway. Brava!

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MAN Fall 2009.
February 27, 2009

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I love a show like MAN Fall 2009, because I’m all for innovation and challenge in the menswear industry. A show like this although not very coherent is very much all about the clothes and the most suggestive show of all. From where stars arise I believe, therefore I’m always on the look out. In today’s world of fashion collaboration is synonymous with “limited edition”- mass produced designer clothing. Not to say there aren’t any great ones. What Topman is doing through a show like this is greater though. Offering these designers a platform where they can freely showcase their work as they would like. Embodying the true meaning of fashion and basing on creativity rather than commerce. Images Via

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Natural History Museum

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Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum

RAD HOURANI.
February 22, 2009

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I believe I’ve expressed my love for up & coming designer Rad Hourani many times before, and so there is no need to stress the point. His collection for the Fall of 2009 speaks for itself. Rad continued with his trademark unique vision, a Gothic, rock & roll sensibility that has made him something of a cult following. But there is more to Rad’s designs than just that, made clear by the detail and depth of every one of his pieces.

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Perhaps this was the reason for the added colour into the usual all black palette. In result it not only was a way of better showcasing the depth of his creations, the added colour gave a certain volume to the clothes. It was really a softer approach for Rad who experimented with softer lines in this collection, as if to balance out  rigid sensibilities.

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Although this collection was pure Rad changes came in subtle ways. It seems to be Hourani is slowly wavering into  new realms. Thing is Rad Hourani is perfect as is, no?

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Tommy Hilfiger.
February 21, 2009

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Z Zegna Fall 2009.
February 20, 2009

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A wet Runway, Dark palette, strong looks- Behind such an austere show was the idea that the man of today needs to appear more masculine, strong, even if insecure. That is according to Alessandro Sartori current designer for the label who presented some very masculine looks for the label’s fall collection. Belted trenches, oversized overcoats, wide ties and wide rounded shoulders, truly wonderful. Perhaps even the best New York has offered to menswear this Week.

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